The Best Drops from Watches and Wonders: Day 1

Watches and Wonders, the all-digital replacement for the SIHH watch trade show kicked off today, with 15 brands showing their latest watches.

We’ve covered Patek Philippe’s Nautilus 5711/1A-014, the final version of the brand’s iconic stainless steel Nautilus before it is retired for good and we’ve also looked at the four big drops from Rolex, including a redesigned and upgraded Explorer II.

Panerai announced its eLAB-ID, a $60,000 USD dive watch made from 98.6% recycled materials and also took the unusual step of publishing the list of suppliers who made it possible, in the hope that other brands will take up the challenge of producing more sustainable watches in future.

Hermès also dropped its first dedicated men’s watch collection, H08, based on a rounded square titanium case and meticulously balanced dial featuring an original typeface.

But what of the rest? Here’s HYPEBEAST’s round-up of the other great watches from Watches and Wonders Day 1.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Gold and Silver

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Why: Tudor makes use of precious metal for the first time since the brand relaunched itself in 2012, with two Black Bay Fifty-Eight models, one in .925 silver and another in 18k yellow gold. Both models also come with exhibition casebacks for the first time.

Price: $4,300 USD and $16,800 USD respectively.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar

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Why: A 7th world record in ultra-thin watchmaking from Bulgari, this time the world’s thinnest perpetual calendar. The 2.75mm thick calibre consists of 408 components and fits inside a 5.8mm titanium Octo Finissimo case.

Price: $59,000 USD.

Cartier Tank Must

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Why: Cartier revives its Must line from the 1970s, and re-invents it as an accessible, practical version of the brand’s iconic Tank. The watch uses a clever ‘Solarbeat’ movement, which powers itself using only natural light entering the case through perforations in its Roman numeral hour markers, leaving the rest of the dial untouched. The result is a watch that will run for 16 years before it needs to visit a watchmaker.

Price: TBA, drops September.

A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split

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A. Lange & Sohne

Why: Lange’s unique Triple Split, a Rattrapante chronograph capable of timing three (rather than two) distinct events at once, might not be new but it has been given a new lease on life with a vibrant 18k pink gold case and dark blue solid silver dial.

Price: $164,000 USD

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185

Why: Most JLC’s Reverso watches have at least two dials but the Calibre 185 manages four by building into what is usually the Reverso’s entirely passive case cradle. It is also one of the most complicated watches the brand has ever produced with 11 complications including perpetual calendar, flying tourbillon, minute repeater, jumping hour and day/night indication.

Price: Euro 1.35m ($1.6m)

In other watch news, Swatch reveals its Bioceramic case material made from castor oil.
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