Since Balenciaga‘s controversial campaign earlier this year, the Parisian brand has taken a step back to reevaluate its priorities. Creative Director Demna has taken a moment to pause and reflect, focusing on fashion fundamentals and the art of design. Winter 2023 dictated that “fashion can no longer be seen as entertainment,” — invalidating Demna’s gimmicky design language portrayed since his appointment in 2015.
Balenciaga brings a different approach to Paris Fashion Week for Spring 2024, staging a theatrical showcase flooded with Demna’s friends and family. “This show is a reflection of Demna’s world, and the identities that comprise his community,” read the show notes. The showcase displayed this to a T, seeing Demna’s husband BFRND, Amanda Lepore, and Paloma Elsesser walk the runway. The large venue featured a red-carpeted stage with velour curtains, soundtracked by orchestra, piano, and electronic numbers voiced by Isabelle Huppert.
The designer’s mother opened the show wearing an upcycled car coat split in black and navy hues. His university fashion professor followed with a capped dress in ribbed textiles, while designer and critic Diane Pernet paired her trademark headscarf with smooth black outerwear. Padded shoulders dominated the 88-look collection with ultra-broad outlines seen on oversized blazers and coats with a dramatic feel.
Shrunken hoodies received sponsored graphics matched with camouflaged denim, while terry cloth robes came out of the shower and worn down the runway. Fruit-printed shopping bags and Batman-style glasses hoped from look to look, complementing Alpinestars racer jackets, gigantic gym bags, shoe-shaped clutches, and glossy floral gowns. BFRND closed the show in an upcycled wedding gown made from seven ’00s pieces, veiled with embroidered detailing and dramatic eye makeup.
Take a closer look at Balenciaga’s Spring 2024 collection in the gallery above and stay tuned for more Paris Fashion Week content on Hypebeast.
Elsewhere, Sarah Burton bids farewell to Alexander McQueen for SS24.
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