Matty Bovan RTW Fall 2021

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The multitalented Matty Bovan did just about everything for this collection, from hand-crocheting the fishnets and making military buttons out of jam jar lids, to doing the hair, makeup and photography for the look book which he photographed in a church hall in his native York, England.

Bovan also kept sourcing and manufacturing as local as possible: his denim came from Wales, and his cable-knit sweaters were hand-made by the neighbors around the corner from his York home. As usual, he did all of the screenprinting and dyeing in-house. Even the models, he’s proud to say, were local — from Manchester, Sheffield and Leeds.

He spun old into new, using deadstock fabrics, including merino wool “fur,” and sustainable Swarovski sequins for his lavish, and wacky, under-the-sea creations. The pandemic, Bovan said, made him ask even more questions about where his fabrics and materials come from, and why.

Matty Bovan RTW Fall 2021

34 Photos 

His inspiration was a dream of drowning, and the looks were — as always — maximalist, showy and conceptual — giant glistening sequins crushed and molded into hoods, skirts and boots; multicolored knits glistening with crystalline ropes like seaweed, and a fuzzy strapless dress that shone like a pearl in the maelstrom of color and texture.

Lord Nelson-style coats looked as if they’d been through swashbuckling swordplay, what with their raggedy edges and sliced-off shoulders while long knitted dresses were slashed and splashed with color. This collection has never been for the faint of heart — there’s a more commercial offer online — but it’s always an adventure to watch Bovan’s imagination in motion.

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